Continuing the Heritage Walk across the Serampore... Check first part of Serampore tour here.
As we have seen most of the Mahesh, we are now heading towards Dey Street and the northern part of the city.
If you think about the historical timeline of Serampore, it can be divided into phases - before European colonization (before 1755), Danish colonization and associated Bengali culture (1755-1845), British colonization and industrialization (1845-1947) and post independence era (after 1947). Thanks to our governmental carelessness, the post independence era was mostly insignificant in all terms - neither the heritages were taken care of, nor new heritage was built up - Serampore, though one of the largest town of Hooghly district turned into a satellite town of Calcutta.
Dey Bari & Dey Ghat
Age: 200 years approx
What to see: The Dalanwala Bari & Durga Pujo in the time of Autumn
Age: 200 years approx
What to see: The Dalanwala Bari & Durga Pujo in the time of Autumn
The Deys had made their fortune in salt trade during the 1780s. They had their business running at Burrabazar.
The building was built in parts, most probably during early to mid 1800's by Ramchandra Dey. The style is typical Bengali architecture of 18th century - a thakurdalan (or temple courtyard) and verandahs encircling it and leading to rooms on three sides and a temple on the fourth side. That gives access to all room and tells about the shared living culture in extended families in Bengal.
The main deity is Shreedhar (i.e. Narayan). But Dey Bari of Serampore is also famous for their Bonedi Barir Puja across the state.
The main deity is Shreedhar (i.e. Narayan). But Dey Bari of Serampore is also famous for their Bonedi Barir Puja across the state.
Deys had their own Ghat at the bank of Ganges, Dey Ghat. Now it is accessible by everyone. There are several temples at Dey Ghat - temples of Karunamoyi Kalimata, Chourangi Baba, and Durga Mata - all are comprised in a single building. I think those temples were tiny ones, later the pakka temples were made.
Info-source:
https://www.kolkata24x7.com/dey-bari-puja-of-serampore/
https://www.facebook.com/deybari.serampore/
https://sumantachatton.blogspot.com/2019/10/blog-post.html
Serampore College & Carey Museum
Age: 202 years
Why? Second oldest college in the country after Presidency College, Calcutta and one of the oldest educational institutes in India that is still functional
Website: https://www.seramporecollege.org/
Serampur College was founded in 1818 by William Carey at Aldeen House with only 37 students. Joshua Marshman and William Ward also helped Carey to start Asia's second oldest college. The college was shifted to the present campus in 1821, three years after the foundation.
Even before the college was founded, Carey not only began translating the Bible but also wrote grammar books and dictionaries in several Indian languages. They published newspapers and periodicals. A printing press was also set up to facilitate publication. A Royal Charter was issued by the court in Denmark in 1827, which not only recognised the college but also allowed it similar rights to confer degrees in all subjects as enjoyed by the Danish universities in Copenhagen and Kiel.
They did the pioneering work of publishing periodicals such as the Dig Darshan, the Samachar Darpan and the Friend of lndia, the ancestor of the present Statesman. William Carey published an amazing number of grammatical and lexicographical works in Sanskrit and Bengali and in other Asian languages. He is rightly given a place among the founders of modern Bengali prose. He translated the Bible into several Asian languages with the help of other scholars. His interest in Indian flora was realised in the establishment of Agri Horticultural Society in Alipore, Calcutta in 1820.
When the British were about to take charge of Serampore, the treaty signed between the Danes and the British included clauses ensuring that the College continued to enjoy the rights and immunities granted to it the Danish Royal Charter. Even today, the College remains one of the premier educational institutions of West Bengal.
Inside the college there is museum in the memory of William Carey - Carey Museum.
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| William Carey's Desktop (source: internet) |
However we were restricted to enter into the College Campus as well as in Carey Museum due to COVID-19 pandemic.
Reference:
1. উইলিয়ম কেরী ঃ সাহিত্য সাধনা - শক্তিব্রত ঘোষ (বর্ধমান বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়) / William Carey : Contribution to Literature by Shaktibrata Ghosh (Burwan University)
Next to the College, at the site of the former botanical garden and the Baptist Mission press, there is India Jute Mill, one of the oldest Jute mill of India (est. 1866) - it is the industrial heritage of Serampore. The mill was shut down in 2017.
In 1854 Serampore got connected to Howrah via Rail, and that kickstarted the urbanization as well as the commercialization of the area. India's first jute mill was Acland Mill (est. 1855, later renamed as Wellington Jute Mill) in Rishra, a 3.5km away from Serampore. Between 1866 and 1915, four more jute mills were established in the Hooghly district and the migrant workers from Bihar, Orissa, Assam, Uttar Pradesh, Andra Pradesh came here, that leads to today's multicultural population.
The town was also famous for its textile business. Post Bangabhanga in 1905, Byomkesh Chakravarti & his associates founded Banga Laxmi Cotton Mill in 1906 near Mahesh to meet the demand of Swadeshi clothes.
Government Central Weaving Institute was founded in 1908. That time the Institute was offering only 2 year certificate course in weaving. After that in the year 1926 Women's section started in separate premises. In 1938, a three-year diploma course in textile technology was started. Institute started B.Sc (Tech) degree course in Textile Technology in the year 1957. Now it is known as Government College of Engineering & Textile Technology, Serampore (GCETTS) with new subjects of Computer Science and Information Technology under WBUT (now MAKAUT).
Trivia: While working on an early Heritage Walk tour in Kolkata, I came across articles saying Mr. D.B. Mehta had a cotton mill in Serampore - Empress of India Cotton Mills. The only active fire temple in Kolkata, Ervad Dhunjeebhoy Byramjee Mehta Zoroastrian Anjuman Atash Adaran at Metcafe Street is named after him. However later in Google Books search, I found that it was in Budge Budge. (That blogspot link is here)
Serampore Johnnangar Baptish Church
Age: 220 years
Why? Serampore Trio's first residence
William Carey came to Calcutta in 1973 but didn't get much support from the local British administration as the British were more inclined to the business and they thought missionaries can pose a threat to their business by promoting Christianity. Carey moved to Mednipur as manager of Indigo Plant owned by a British. Carey & his fellow Marshman & Ward came to Serampore in 1800 and was welcomed by the-then Danish Governor Ole.
A minute walk from the college there is the Old Mission Chapel (or Church) built by Carey, Marshman and Ward. After they reached Serampore they bought a land for the present Baptish Church for Rs 6000 from the Governor's nephew, although they had only half at their disposal. The rest was made up from the money they brought from England, by bills on England and by a loan. This Chapel served as the first home & worship of Serampore trio and their associate John Mack.
By the end of 1800 the missionaries got their first convert, Krishna Pal who was a Hindu carpenter by caste.
A side building was made up as Carey's printing press and the rear land was used as botanical garden of Carey. It was the second printing press after first one was burnt down. The 'Paper Mill' was developed by John Clark Marshman (north side of Chapel) and produced 'Serampore' paper, which used the missionaries' unique formula, developed over many years, for resistence to attack by white ants. Infront of it there is a meditation ground at the bank of river, many take it as garden/park of the church.
Although the Mission Church and the Johnnagar Church were always closely associated up to 1955 they remained separate churches, with Mission Church having services in English and the Johnnagar Church having services in Bengali. In September 1956 the two churches were amalgamated into one. At first called the Johnnagar Serampore Baptist Church, later it was renamed Serampore Johnnagar Baptist Church. It is now part of Calcutta Diocese of the CNI (Church of North India).
Kundu Bari
Age - 300+ years
Why? One of the oldest Durga puja in Bengal
I found the information of this private property in an article mentioning Bonedi Barir Durga puja of the Bengal. The building is not a big one, like we saw the Dey Bari. The main building is in dilapidated condition, decayed over the time badly. Outer layer of the walls is mostly shredded off, efflorescence on the algae-covered bricks of the walls tell the 300 year old history of the house.
Beside the main building, there is small thakur dalan/chandi mandap where Kundu family worships the Devi Durga in the Autumn. Kundu Bari carries the old grandeur of the Durga puja. (Thako) Gopal Kundu started Durga puja in 1885. He had been a business man deals in Ghee, Sugarcane Jaggery by importing them from Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. They also founded a ghat at the bank of Hooghly river, Kundu Ghat near Serampore College. Initially the Chandi Mandap/Durga Dalan was built with mud and haystack sheds, later it was rebuilt with concrete and further restoration was done with cement.
During second world war the British took guard of the house, and British soldiers stayed here. The British soldiers tried to demolish the Durga Dalan, but there was a small earthquake like incident happened, and soldiers stopped the demolition. These few years the family durga puja was stopped.
In between 1943 to 1947 the Durga puja was withheld due to financial issues, as well as the building was in the British Army's possession. Devi Durga came in the dreams of Jiban Krishna Kundu, who was the family head that time. He restarted the Durga Puja in Kundu Bari.
Trivia: Jiban Krishna's son is Dilip Kumar Kundu. Now he is an octogenarian, runs a grocery shop to meet the daily needs. But he is more than just a member of Kundu family, or a just grocery shop owner. He was one of the main guitarist in Akash Bani, and he was the main guitarist in the recording of Mahishasurmardini for these two years 1975, 1981 - Jaago Durga and Bajlo Tomar Alor Benu was came out from his Japanese guitar in the recording of Mahishasurmardini in Akashvani's studio. He played guitar in several albums by many popular singers of that time. Later he used to be a judge in many guitar competition in many organisations like Rabindra Bharati or Kalamandir. Now he is out of the circuit, many have forgotten him, but he plays his guitar during the Mahalaya days sitting in his house. The melancholy meets the music in the afternoon of Matripakhha in the old neglected building!
Unique Lodge
130-year old family home of the Bhattacharya family.
Pandit Kashinath Bhattacharya came to Serampore from Debipur, another village town of Hooghly on the request of Vidyasagar to teach Sanskrit. He settled in Dey St, but he died untimely. His son, Durga Prasanna became a building contractor and built this ancestral home for his family at 21 Dey St.
He was very fancy at his time, he founded a zoo inspired from Raja Rajendra Mullick's Marble Palace & the zoo. He also has a good number of dogs and won several trophies in the Dog Shows.
If you want to visit this building, contact Pradipta Bhattacharya at 098300 71787. He is the grandson of Durga Prasanna. He lives in Kolkata, but comes to Serampore in every weekend to take care of his family house.
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Hotel/Unique-Lodge-Serampore-2043976212542446/
Source: https://kinjalbose.wordpress.com/2018/09/09/unique-lodge-serampore/
Ram Sita Mandir
Age: 267 years
Why? Serampore got its name from the temple!
Rajchandra Roy made the surrounding Sripur, Mohanpur & Gopinathpur as debottor properties. To run the temple smoothly he also donated 300 bigahs of land, which is lost by time and taken over by local people. By the name of Lord Ram, the name of the locality, Srirampur/ Serampore was originated.
In 2005 the temple was renovated by family members of Raja Nirmmal Chandra Ghosh, sebaiyt of the temple.
It should be noted that there is another Ram-Sita Temple at Doltala, Uttarpara built by Raja Rajchandra Roy, son of Raja Manohar Roy in the year of 1762. Nearby there is another temple - Bhadrakali Temple, built in 1730 by Raja Manohar Roy.
Mission Cemetery - William Carey Graveyard
Located at Rupchand Chaprasi Lane (Google Maps notes it as another Danish Cemetery) also known as Mission Cemetery or the Baptist Mission Cemetery in Serampore contains the family graves of Carey, Ward and Marshman.
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| Mission Cemetery (source: internet) |
The ground is now maintained by Serampore College and three monuments of the prominent missionaries William Carey, Joshua Marshman and William Ward have recently been restored under supervision by INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage), Kolkata.
Danish Cemetry
Age - more than 250 years
The Danish cemetery in Serampore has two parts - one side was reserved for Protestants and adjoining to it, separated by a low wall, was the burial ground of the Roman Catholics. In the early period the ground was only fenced by a living hedge, which was replaced by a brick wall in the 1770s.
Here the oldest grave is of Col. Krefting, Danish Chief and Director (died 1828). The famous author of Lepcha language Dictionary, Gen. Mainswaring was also buried here. Unfortunately only few gravestones with inscriptions have been preserved. The three most notable commemorative epitaphs are of Factor Casper Top and the two Governors of the Danish possessions in Bengal, Ole (Olave) Bie and Jacob Krefting.
The Danish cemetery is listed as a Protected Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act of 1958 and is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India.
Serampore Town Hall
Raja Kisorilal Goswami Memorial Hall was built in 1927. Now it serves as the Municipality office of Serampore. It also hold a function hall and a public library inside it.
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| Serampore Town Hall - located just opposite to a railgate, and surrounded by a congested road |
Brief history of Serampore Public Library - for interested readers only
In 1806 Dr. William Carry and his assistant Dr. Joshua Marsh Man established ‘Shreerampur Hitakarini Sabha’ (শ্রীরামপুর হিতকারিণী সভা) which had played the role of library. In 1845, Danish left India and the name of the Hitakarini Sabha was changed into Shreerampur Public Library by a resolution of 1871 under the President ship of sub-divisional officer Traven Plauen. It is notable that contribution of Gopikrishna Goswami and Heramba Goswami were memorable to establish the library. In later part, Raja Kishori Lal Goswami, king of Burdwan and Tulsi Chandra Goswami donated many books to the library.
In 1801, some local enthusiastic youths had organized a 'Mutual Improvement Association' to exchange their opinion and discussion. Brahma Mohan Mallick, Bhudev Mukhopadhyay, Dinabandhu Mitra and other learned persons were the patron of this association. In 1885, the association merged with the Shreerampur Public Library and emerged as a rich library, Shreerampur Public Library and Mutual Improvement Association. Very soon, the need of own building for the library was felt due to increase of book and members. King Kishori Lal Goswami had promised to build the library.
Later, his son Tulsi Chandra Goswami, a good orator and parliamentarian had constructed a large beautiful building by expanding more than half core of rupees and named it as ’Raja Kishori Lal Goswami Memorial Hall’. He provided one part of this building to the library and another part to the municipality. In 1928, the library shifted to the building permanently.
The library had earned membership of Bengal Library Association and Indian Library Association in 1929 and 1931 respectively. In 1933, session of the Asian Library Conference was held in this library. Kumar Munindra Deb Roy, Newton Mohan Dutta, Heramba Nath Maitra, Dinesh Chandra Sen, Ramananda Chattopadhyay, Khodabox and many other learned persons had attended its different functions at different time. In 1924, Car Michael inspected the library and donated a set of ‘Imperial Gazette’ by Hunter as a sign of his pleasure. Shreerampur Public Library was the one famous library among 22 of same in undivided Bengal in the nineteenth century. At present it has been bearing its glory by collecting 31,647 volumes and 4249 users.
Hooghly Bank Bhawan
At 16th August, 1932 this Hooghly Bank Limited was founded by D. N. Mukherjee of Uttarpara. This bank had 30 branches across the Bengal before independence.
In 1950 United Bank of India was formed by amalgamation of:
- Comilla Banking Corporation (founded by Narendra Chandra Dutta in 1914 in what is now Bangladesh)
- Bengal Central Bank (founded by J. C. Das in 1918 as Bengal Central Loan Company Ltd.),
- Comilla Union Bank (founded by Indu Bhusan Dutta in 1922)
- Hooghly Bank (founded by D. N. Mukherjeee in 1932).
Post independence Cuttack Bank Ltd (estd 1913), Tezpur Industrial Bank Ltd (estd 1918, first commercial bank in Assam province), Hindustan Mercantile Bank Ltd (estd 1944) and Narang Bank of India Ltd (estd 1943 in Gujarat) were merged into/ acquired by United Bank of India.
In 2019 United Bank of India and Oriental Bank of Commerce were merged with Punjab National Bank creating India's second largest public sector bank.
Serampore Jail /Correctional Home (উপসংশোধনাগার)
Est. 1803 by the Danes
Presently located at Rishi Bankim Sarani, it was established in 1803 as built under the supervision of the Danish engineer and Major, B. A. von Wickede. It was the second jailhouse for the Danes.
Though the Danes having limited and small administration, the governor had to deal with law and order of the town. A court house and jail or Catcherie was to be built. The first Danish jail in Serampore was a single building, containing two rooms only with a veranda and a surrounding brick wall - that was not sufficient considering the population of the town was nearly 11,000 and increasing. During the British possesion 1801-1802 the complex was neglected, and beyond renovation. In 1803 a new plot was bought to establish the jail by Wickede.
Since its establishment, Catherie (also spelled Cutchery, is a Danish loan word and stems from the Hindi word Kachari/কাছারী) had undergone many structural modification, even after independence. Now it is still functional as Serampore Subsidiary Correctional Home under administration of the Sub Division Officer.
Serampore Union Institution
Serampore houses multiple schools dated before 1900. Ballavpur High School, Serampore Union Institution and Nandalal Institution were established in 1867, 1884 and 1873 respectively.
By the end of the 19th century some locals of Serampore led by Sri Naryan Chandra Bhattacharyya approached Pandit Iswar Chandra Vidyasagar with request to open a branch of Metropolitan High School at Serampore. But Vidyasagar Mahasai advised them to set up a school in the town on their own. With his blessing Came up Mahesh Higher class English School with fifty six students in the year 1884. Later the school was shifted from Mahesh Higher to Newgate street (present Rishi Bankim Sarani) and there from to Poffam House, the present Vidyasagar bhavan of the school building.
In the thirties the doors of the school were opened for the girls of the town willing to pursue higher education after primary level until Serampore Girls’ High School came up to shoulder the responsibility. During the war the school building also housed some classes of Serampore College.
Spread over 10 bighas Serampore Union Institution has been in the centre of many historical events of the pre and post independent India with her spirited children actively participating in the freedom movement and process of reformation, social as well as political, besides achieving brilliant academic excellence spanning a period of hundred and twenty five years since 1884.
The old building of Union Institution is a heritage building.
Nearby Hope House and Haranath Bhawan are also listed as heritage building.
Hope House is located at 51-52 Panchugopal Bhaduri Sarani (Gantzer St). Apparent age of the building is not known, but more than 150 years of old. Reverend Lee Philipant (Sub-Judge of Serampore) sold the building to Charubala Devi, mother of Sitangshu Chakraborty. Architecture wise it is a classical European bungalow with a lofty front portico and central hall flanked by rooms on two sides. Height of rooms is about 20 feet. Wooden beams supporting the tile roof with lime terracing.
Haranath Bhawan is located at 54 K.M. Bhattacharyya Street (Chapan St) - Built by Haranath Bhattacharya in 1884. (opp. to Union Institution)
Golakdham
Located at 43 Queen's St (or, Netaji Subash Avenue, as renamed), Golakdham was built by Golok Chandra Roy, the diwan of the Danish government in the 19th century.
It is a typical traditional house consisting of verandahs and courtyards as the functional essence. The ‘bairer’ courtyard has a greater degree of monumentality reflecting in its architectural language, with the introduction of ‘thakurdalan’ concept. The ‘andar’ courtyard maintained more of its rustic bearings – most of the activities and routines of the erstwhile life were being rigidly followed and upheld. The courtyard was used for – cultural events marked by the presence of eminent personalities like Bismillah Khan sahab, Bade Ghulam Ali sahab; during early 19th C., the Congress party would hold meetings in the baithak khana; also bandminton tournaments were organized in the courtyard.
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| Golok Dham - outside view |
It lost its former glory and a very few care about its history and heritage, not even the dwellers of this building.
Trivia: Satyajit Ray's Golokdham Rahashya is based on a Dutta family's imaginary mansion of the same name, located at 7/1 Ballygaunge Place.
There are two other heritage buildings nearby -
Sarada Bhawan of Satsang Society (initially owned by Sarada Prasad Ghosh has been donated to Satsang Society; located at 57 N.S. Avenue)
and
Sarkar Bari (Corinthian column is the dominant feature of the facade, a part of it is demolished for real estate development. Located at 50 N.S. Avenue).
St. Olav's Church/Danish Church
Age: 214 years
Commonly known as Danish Church in the locality, St. Olav's Church was built in Frederiksnagore during the Danish rule by the name of Norway's national Saint Olav. The fund partly came from private subscription in Denmark and Serampore and partly by public grants. Construction was started by Danish governor of Serampore Lt. Olav Ole but he died in 1805, one year before the construction completed i.e. in 1806. The nave was completed in 1806, a year after the decease of Ole Bie, whereas the portico and the bell tower were completed in 1821.
Captain Krefting, successor of Ole completed the remaining work with the help from Englishmen John Chambers and Robert Armstrong. The Church has been used by the local congregation ever since. The church was Lutheran, for Serampore's Protestant citizens. As there was a small number of resident Danes, the services were performed by the English Baptist missionaries and never by any Danish priest.
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| Lt. Col. Ole Bie's Memorial Plate Plaque inside St. Olav's Church |
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| Lt. Colonel Ola Bie. born at Tronohjem, Norway in Feb 1733. Died in Serampore on 18th May, 1805 |
Why was a Norwegian sitting at highest chair of Frederiksnagore's Danish government? That's because until 1814, Denmark and Norway formed one kingdom. Interestingly though we know Lt. Col. Bie as Serampore's Danish governor (1776-1805), the title was actually never approved while Serampore remained under the authority of Denmark's earliest settlement in India, Tranquebar in Tamil Nadu.
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St. Olav's Church (before restoration) Photo credit: facebook |
St. Olav’s Church is owned by the Calcutta Diocesan Trust Association (CDTA), headed by the bishop of Kolkata, but Serampore College takes care of it on daily basis. The religious ceremonies have been shared between Serampore College and the local parish of Johnnagar Baptist Church. However all activites had to be stopped in 2009 due to very poor condition of the building.
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| After Restoration - St. Olav's Church, Serampore (2020) |
In 2013 the restoration project of St. Olav's had been initiated by the Danish Ministry of Culture with the help of West Bengal government's Heritage Commission. The restoration of St Olav’s Church has won the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation 2016 and has set a standard of excellence for future conservation efforts.
Though it was opened daily, due to pandemic situation it was closed during our visit.
Nearby at the back there are two heritage buildings of local rich family.
1. Residence of Sadhu Family at 7 Shibchandra Palit Lane (previously Queen Street) - Sadhu bought this European influenced tranditional bungalow type building from a British person. Age of the building is more than 140 years.
2. Chatterjee Bari at 34 Shibchandra Palit Lane. This more than 200 years old, two storied courtyard house and wooden beams supported tile roof with lime terracing. Brick cupola is over the staircase.
Danish Government House & the Complex
The 12,000-square feet Danish Government House was the former residence of the Danish governors is an imperial colonial-style building. Under the Danes, DGH was the administrative headquarters and continued to be so under the British. The Bengal government too had its offices in the building uptil 1990, when it was abandoned. It was restored by Danish & West Bengal and it now holds the office of Ministry of Information & Cultural Affairs of WB government.
As per recent reports there will be a museum to showcase the history of the town, Serampore from the Baishnav era to British peiod.
You can see more photos of restoration works by Flemming Aalund, the main architecht behind this herculean job at tegnestuen-raadvad.dk
The compound has multiple heritage buildings and structure apart from the Danish Government House - North Gate, Bar Association, Judicial Magistrate Court, Office of Addl. SDPT of Police, Old BL & LRO and SDL&LRO Office, South Gate. Entry is mostly restricted in these official buildings.
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| Map courtsey: the National museum of Denmark |
North Gate - The gate was constructed by the Danish Government as the Northern (riverside) entry/exit point to the then Government compound. After the British Occupation during 1808-15, the gate was rebuilt with paired pilasters headed by Ionic capitals with a triangular pediment of classical order.
Bar Association - Just right when you enter through the North Gate. It is an European influenced traditional bungalow, constructed as a part of staff quarters and / or guard house in close proximity of the Main Gate. Exact history is not much known, but the age of the building is more than 150 years.
Judicial Magistrate Court - Exact history is not clear, but it is highly suggested that this building was built during the British. The age of the building is near about 80-90 years.
On the western part of the compound, the town engineer Götting dug out a new water tank in 1786 and constructed the brick-built steps leading down to the water. The tank provides an attractive element of water and greenery forming a very important part of the compound and the pleasant environment.
Tin Bazaar - once it was a market place (Crown Market), having private godowns and warehouses. Now it is highly populated residential and semi-industrial area.
There is a 'Court Compound Heritage Canteen' near the South Gate. Named as Vheto, it started its operations in January, 2018. They serve mainly Bengali foods in the restaurant.
Once you move out through the South Gate, you will find Old Police Residence just opposite to the road. It's another heritage building listed. And the road goes away straight from you - is K.M. Shah Street.
And if you go little to the right, you will find Residence of Dey family at 1 Gopinath Saha Street and Residence of Das family at 5 Dr. B. N. Jot Sarani. Both buildings are in a poor condition.
Nearby at Bura Bibi Lane, there is a majar called Buro Bibir Majar. Muharrahm starts from here.
Nearby there is Sri Sri Swami Sri Yukteswar Giri Smriti Mandir.
Paramahansa Yogananda (born Mukunda Lal Ghosh; January 5, 1893 – March 7, 1952) was an Indian monk, yogi and guru who introduced millions to the teachings of meditation and Kriya Yoga through his organization Self-Realization Fellowship (SRF) / Yogoda Satsanga Society (YSS) of India.
As we go across the K. M. Sha street, we will find Mela Bari and opposite to it Mr. K. M. Sha's residence. K. M. Sha (ক্ষেত্র মোহন শাহ) was a rich man and was associated with several philanthropic and community development activities such agricultural fair, school for the under privileged, charitable dispensary etc. He contributed significantly to the socio-political and cultural life of Serampore.
The residence of K.M. Sha is an European influenced traditional bungalow, constructed and owned by a Danish citizen, which was bought by him and renovated/expanded. The exact age of the building is not known but definitely over 200 years.
Mela Bari, as it is known by locals, is basically a temple complex including courtyard and pond. It is just opposite to Sha's residence. Main deity is Lord Shiva. During Shivaratri there is a fair conducted over a month in the compound. Now both properties are owned by descendants of Mr. K.M. Sha - Mr Uttam Kr Sha and 4 brothers.
At present the whole compound is in sheer neglect, and the temple complex is in ruins. You can see the neglect in next photos.
Earlier the building complex used for philanthropic and community development activities: temple complex, guest house, library, hostel for needy students and also as a school building. Presently about 400 families have encroached the land and buildings that led to a slum like condition.
Mela Bari - Shiva Ratri's fair celebration - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOp8haGgO1g
Immaculate Conception Church / Roman Catholic Church
Age 244 years with History of 256 years!
Though this beautiful Roman Catholic Church was built in 1776, the history of this church goes back to 1764 when a small chapel was built for European settlers. In 1783 it was dedicated to Madre de Deos. In the painting by Peter Anker in 1790 the church appears as a low building with a large semi-circular pediment spanning the whole width of the gable facing the river. In 1994, the church was renovated in present form by adding an additional floor inside the nave to serve as a meeting hall and adding a new wing for accommodation.
Presently it is a very well maintained religious place for Catholics. Since 1957 the place has housed a Cheshire Home for physically and mentally disabled people, supported by the international Leonard Cheshire organization and run by Catholic sisters.
Immaculate Conception refers to the doctrine that God preserved the Virgin Mary from the taint of original sin from the moment she was conceived; it was defined as a dogma of the Roman Catholic Church in 1854.
Behind the Church, there is a heritage building - a private residence of Bose family (listed as Bose Bari 2, at 51 T.C. Goswami St.).
As you go into the T.C. Goswami Street, there are several heritage buildings which was often regarded as Cluster of Villas. We did not visit them, as most of them are private properties. I am just listing them here with a short history & location.
1. Hannah House/Serampore Mission Girls' School old building- 38 T.C. Goswami Street. This was the first girls' school in Serampore established by Joshua and his wife Hannah Marshman. Now it is abandoned due to poor condition.
2. Serampore Textile College - old building at 29 T.C. Goswami Street. Now it is completely in ruins, abandoned. The villa was a private property of the Goswami family and then it was donated to the Bengal Textile College.
3. Serampore Girls' College - old building at 13 T.C. Goswami Street
4. Bose Bari 1 - located at 35 T.C. Goswami Street. Associate history as follows, D.L. Bose was the first owner of this two storey villa (plot area 37 kottah). Later his son Samuel Bose was baptized and engaged himself in social reform works in Serampore. He was the patron of Missionary School of Serampore. Kadambari Bose, his daughter, was the first lady to visit England. Subsequent generation settled in Kolkata and others shifted abroad.
5. TB Hospital - 11 T.C. Goswami Street
6. Walsh Hospital - 2 buildings. Located at 22A T.C. Goswami Street. The land was donated by Goswami family.
The history of Walsh Hospital was dated back to 1836-38, which marks the second oldest hospital of Bengal.
In 1834-35 Danish official Johannes von Rehling (who was governor of Danish East India Company during 1838-1841) arranged a meeting with Dr. Marshman, Doctor Doyet and other respected members of Danish East India Company. They agreed to establish a medical center. Initially the center got allowance of 1400 rupees, and yearly 1,800 rupees were given to the medical center.
Danish medical center became Walsh Hospital of Serampore after British took charge of the town. In 1870 the medical center came under the control of Srirampur Municipality.
In 1906, Nandalal Goswami, Kishorelal Goswami, Rajendralal Goswami, Radhikalal Goswami etc. built the Govindasundari Dispensary in memory of their mother and a waiting room for patients coming from far away to the hospital by donating 11,000 rupees. Maniklal Datta Mahashay also donated some money - the old eye treatment center was demolished and a new four-storey building was built there.
Subsequently, this sub-divisional hospital was went under the direct management of the Health Department of the Government of West Bengal and expansion of the services of the hospital is being done.
7. Nag Bari - 30 T.C. Goswami Street. Associated history - Basak families of Kolkata purchased the entire complex of 33 kattah and then they sold it to number of families. Half of the building has been turned into real estate project, remaining older part is in poor condition.
Danish Tavern
Age 234 years
Why? Probably oldest restaurant in India
The tavern dates back to 1786 as the British innkeeper James Parr opened “the Denmark Tavern and Hotel” just near Nishan Ghat, where the Danes kept their flagstaffs and salutation cannons and which directly faced the British cantonment of Barrackpore. That was a time when the riverside was dotted with luxurious white villas belonging to Europeans, most of which are lost without a trace. Bishop Reginald Heber (1783-1826) of Calcutta had remarked: “It looked more of a European town than Calcutta.”
The advertisement in the Calcutta Gazette announced that, ''Gentlemen passing up and down the river may be accommodated with breakfast, dinner, supper and lodging; also liquors sold by the single dozen and a good billiard table and coffee room with the newspapers.'' As Serampore was a popular and lucrative pit-stop among the Danish and English traders, in no time, the tavern became a favorite among the Europeans. However, as the Danish fortunes waned in India, the fate of the tavern also took a setback and gradually its name was lost somewhere in the pages of history.
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| Danish Tavern in ruins (2009) [source: internet] |
As Serampore Initiative kickstarted in 2010, this building was in ruins, and nobody knows what was it. Danish Museum played a pivotal role in the restoration of Danish Tavern started from 2015 at the expenses of nearly 5 crore. Manish Chakraborti was the restoration architect who worked on the project with valuable inputs from Danish architect Flemming Aalund.
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The restaurant and hotel is at present maintained by The Park group of hotels after an auction took place. The menu provides for Danish, Bengali, Italian, Chinese and North Indian cuisines. Apart from the restaurant & bar and 6-room hotel there is also a bakery cafe by the Flurys. The balcony of the tavern gives a great view of the river Hooghly, busy with vessels ferrying people and cargo up and downstream.
If you want to stay here, book on https://www.theparkhotels.com/ . Please note that restoration work still ongoing, so before booking make a call to confirm.
They have a facebook page: fb.com/thedenmarktavernserampore/ too, where you can directly have a chat with the hotel reception.
We stopped here to get the lunch. Post restoration the place is now exquisite in appearance and ambience and turned into a cosy luxury dining experience for Serampore. Tourists from Calcutta including Indians and Europeans are also visiting here. The Park has a special but limited Danish offering.
There are three heritage buildings around Danish Tavern. In front of it, there is Nishan Ghat (to East, by the banks of the river, built in 1782). SDO Bunglow is on the south side, and SDPO Residence is on the north. Permission to enter into these two buildings are restricted.
The most prominent ghat (Ghats = ramps and steps leading down to the river) during the Danish period was today's Nishan Ghat which functioned as the main landing place for merchandise and provided the direct connection between the river and the former Danish Government compound. The significance of the Nisan Ghat in the Danish period was further emphasised by a battery of saluting cannons, a flagstaff and a guard's house. The battery was used exclusively for ceremonial purposes on special occasions which was often witnessed by the British cantonment at Barrackpore.
Roy Ghat or Baboo Ghat is nearby, on the way to north further from Danish Tavern.
Water Tower
Located at N.N. Roy Street, it was built in 1913 by Gopikristo Goswami.
Old SBI Building
When you are coming out of Yugol Addhya Ghat of Serampore, you will find a house in ruins to your left. This was probably another Danish building, occupied by SBI a long back. Now in ruins, and it is abandoned. It is architecture wise European villa type, with parts of the structure built with lakhori bricks indicating its construction period during 18th century.
This is the end of part 2 of Serampore Heritage Walk. In the next part we will move north - to see the Goswami Rajbari, Dol Mandir etc. And we will go to Seorafuli too.
Part 1 - Mahesh, Ballavpur
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