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Thursday, June 03, 2021

Heritage Walk - Serampore - Part 4: In the roads of Seoraphuli

This is the extended heritage trip of Serampore. Adding Seoraphuli to Serampore trip makes sense, because Srirampur/Serampore was part of Seoraphuli Raj Estate. Even the name of Srirampur came from the temple of Ram-Sita, which was founded by Raja Rajchandra Roy in 1753. 

This Raj family was famous for their donation and benevolent works. Goswami family shifted to Srirampore because of them. 

Nistarini Kalibari
193 years old

The temple was established by Raja Harishchandra of Dutta family in 1827 (Bengali year of 1234, in the month of Jaisthya(জ্যৈষ্ঠ), in Shukla Panchami Tithi). Here the deity is goddess Nistarini Kali, a form of Dakshina Kali, wife of god Shiva. It is said the temple is on a Panchamundir Aasan (পঞ্চমুণ্ডির আসন). So there is a temple for Sadashiv also. There is another smaller temple for Devi Annapura aka Mahisarusamarhini Dashabhuja Durga along with devadidev Mahadev, Lakhsmi and Ganesh. There is a temple for Srikrishna also.

There is a story behind the establishment of this temple by Raja Harishchandra. The folklore says he was a man of honor, but once he was accused of murder of his wife. Then he left his home at Patuli, Burdwan and planned suicide. However he could not do that for some reasons, and he was lost in a jungle. Tired Harishchandra slept under a tree, and in dream Goddess Kali came to him and ordered establishing of a temple of Dakshina Kali at the bank of the Ganges. The idol was to be created out of the stone on which Harishchandra was sleeping. After this incident Raja returned to his home, and asked to bring that stone. Soon after the stone was arrived at his rajbari, a sculpturer came and identified himself as goddess had sent him to create the idol from the kastipathar Harishchandra brought from the jungle. Finally the temple was made in 1827 and Harishchandra lived in a small house west to the temple since his last day. 

The foundation stone of the temple reads, 

বর্ধমান জেলার অন্তর্ভূক্ত পাটুলির দত্ত 
রাজবংশজাত সাড়াপুলি বা শেওড়াফুলি রাজবংশের প্রতিষ্ঠাতা 
''ক্ষত্রিয়রাজ'' রাজা মনোহর রায়ের পুত্র রাজা রাজচন্দ্র রায় 
রাজচন্দ্রের সুপৌত্র রাজা হরিশচন্দ্র রায় 
১৮২৭ খৃঃ (১২৩৪ সালে জ্যৈষ্ঠ মাসে) 
গঙ্গার তীরবর্তী তাঁর নিজ রাজ্যে পঞ্চমুণ্ডী আসনে
শিবপত্নী দক্ষিণকালিকা ৺ শ্রীশ্রী নিস্তারিণী মাতার 
পাষাণময়ী মূর্ত্তি তথা মন্দির ও সেবা প্রতিষ্ঠা করেন। 
উক্ত দেবসেবা ও মন্দির পরিচালনার সম্পূর্ণ তত্ত্বাবধায়ক 
শেওড়াফুলি রাজপরিবার

It was also told that Rani Rashmani while searching for a place across the Ganges for establishment of Dakkhineswar temple, came here as she was guided by a girl who was actually Devi Nistarini in disguise.

Gate of Nistarini Kalibari

The temple is simple, you can't see major handicraft here. After climbing the stairs you will reach the Natmandir, and the area of sacrifice (Hanri kanth). Here Devi stands on Sadashiva inside a nine petaled lotus, made of copper.


Temporary stalls in front of Natmandir

হাঁড়িকাঠ (at Nistarini Kalibari) 

Way to Kalibari Ghat

At Nistarini Kalibari Ghat 


The entrance and surroundings of the temple is quite crowded with the shops selling flowers, foods, puja related various stuffs etc. 
 
The temple is quite famous among the people. Here Devi is worshipped daily at morning and evening - in the noon the temple is closed. There is no annabhog but Devi is given luchi bhog daily at morning and evening. Sacrifices are also done during Amabashya puja. 



http://templesofbengal.blogspot.com/2016/10/shri-shri-nistarini-kali-temple.html

Nimai Tirtha Ghat of Seoraphuli 
Connects Dui Paisar Ghat of Barrackpore via Ferry Services 
 
Seoraphully Rajbari & Sarbamangla Mandir 
Part of Seoraphuli Raj Debottor Estate

In 2020 Sheorafuli Rajbari had 287th anniversary of Durga puja. Here Debi Durga is worshipped as Debi Shorbomongola (দেবী সর্বমঙ্গলা), the family deity of the Raj family. 



Folklore says Debi Shorbomongola appeared in the dream of Raja Manohar Roy and asked to start her worship. Next morning a ostodhatu idol of the Goddess was found in a pond excavation site, just like Goddess said. And Raja Manohar started worship of Debi Shorbomongola as family deity. 

The idol of Maa Durga is different from the traditional ones, she is not accompanied with her four children, and mounts on a lion which has the face of a horse and of course the idol is not immersed in the adjoining Hooghly (only the ghot and Kolabou /ঘট ও কলাবউ/ are immersed in the ageless river). Animal sacrifice was stopped after a member of the family received an instruction from the deity. Annobhog is not offered.

Rajeshwari is a unique sweet offered to Debi Shorbomongola during Durga pujo day. You can find the recipe in this link

Resources: 
https://shyamalghosh.blogspot.com/2018/09/sheoraphuli-rajbari-durga-puja.html


Naya Manzil, Seoraphuli 
Q8FF+XR2, Sheoraphuli, West Bengal 712223

I never heard of this phase II of Seoraphuli Rajbari before I went there. The Toto driver told me that there is two Seoraphuli Rajbaris. Naya Manzil, aka Seoraphuli Rajbari 2 has almost no history, only locals know this as second Rajbari at Seoraphuli. 



Seoraphully Surendranath Ghosh's House
105 old Durga Puja


Surendra Nath Ghosh started as a Jute Marchant and eventually set up Eastern Belting & Cotton Mills (www.easternbelting.com) in 1948 at Baidyabati (
447, G. T. Road, Distt. Hooghly, Pin :- 712 222). 



Apart from his businessman profile he is also known as many benevolent social works in his locality. 
Sheoraphuli Surendra Nath Vidyaniketan was established by him in 1963. The school is just beside the Seoraphuli Rajbari. 
He died in 1973.


Seoraphully Mallick Bari's Durga Puja 

As I visited across the streets of Seoraphuli with a Toto, nobody can tell exact details about Mallick Bari and the Durga Puja celebrated there. However near Naya Manzil, there is a place with a two-storied house (named as Bhabani Smriti), a temple and a Durga Dalan which is pointed by the locals as Mallick Bari's Durga Puja. But I was informed by a gentleman in the lane, that this building is of Sinha Family. 



Later I found two youtube videos (001, 002) which indicates that this is the place. 



Interestingly there nameplate of the house shows, Bhabani Smriti of some Ghosh family. The place is very peaceful. 
 


Serampore Heritage Walk: 

Part 1 : Mahesh 
[Mahesh Jagannath Temple, Jagannath Snan Mancha, Mahesh Rath, Mahesh Jagannath Gate, Mahesh Jagannath Ghat & Ferry Ghat, Banga Luxmi Cotton Mill (now New Kolkata real estate property), Mahesh Shyamsundar Temple, Jagannath's Masir Bari, Johnnagar Baptist Church, Serampore Sub-divisional Sports Association, Bapuji Cake Factory, Parameswari Balika Vidyalaya, Radha Ballav Jiu Temple of Ballavpur, Radha Ballav Jiu Ras Mancha, Radha Ballav Jiu Ghat & Ferry Ghat, Madan Mohan Temple, Choudhury's Thakur Dalan, Henry Martin's Pagoda, Serampore Jolkol, Aldeen House]

[Dey Bari & Dey Ghat, Serampore College & Carey Museum, India Jute Mill, Textile College, Serampore Johnnangar Baptish Church, Kundu Bari]

[Unique Lodge, Ram Sita Temple, Mission Cemetery - William Carey's Graveyard, Danish Cemetery, Serampore Town Hall, Hooghly Bank Bhawan, Serampore Jail, Serampore Union Institution, Golok Dham]

[St. Olav's Church, Danish Government House and Office Complex (Incl. North Gate, South Gate, Government House aka Exhibition Hall, Bar Association Building, Vheto - the Heritage Canteen), KM Sha's House and Mela Bari, Immaculate Conception Church, Danish Tavern, Roy Ghat or Baboo Ghat, Chandni Ghat or Yugal Adhya Ferry Ghat ]

[Serampore Rajbari/Goswami Mansion, Ras Mancha of Goswami Family, House of Buri Durga - old Goswami Mansion, House of Raja Kishorilal, Dol Mandir of Chatra, Ukil Bari, Bangihati Shiva Temples]

Part 4: Seoraphulli 
[Sheoraphuli Nistarini Temple, Sheoraphuli Rajbari & Sarbamangla Temple, Naya Manzil of Seoraphuli, Seoraphully Surendranath Ghosh's House, Seoraphully Mallick Bari's Durga Puja]

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