Without any introduction it is obvious that Biriyani is the most popular dish in India, though it has several local varieties. Online food order & delivery company Swiggy notes that Indians ordered whopping 115 biriyanis per minute in 2021. They also noted that 4.25 lakh new Swiggy users chose it as their first order. On a funny note, Swiggy also remembers that their delivery partner travelled longest 39.3 Km to deliver biriyani in 2021.
Biriyani came from the Persian word, 'Beryan' which means 'fried before cooking'.
India has a long habit of embracing every culture she comes in touch with, and so the Mughal dish got its different versions in different states and different part of the country. That means 'The great Indian Biriyani is far from single entity'. Different states got their own Biriyani identity.
Lucknow
Awadhi (Uttar Pradesh)
Hyderabadi (Telengana)
Kolkata (West Bengal)
Malabar (Kerala)
Bohri
Goan Fish (Goa)
Bombay (Maharastra)
Ambur (Tamilnadu)
Beary (Karnataka)
Kamrupi (Assam)
Memoni (Gujarat)
Kashmiri
Thalaserry Moplah (Kerala)
Kadal
Dindigul
Hyderabadi biryani is heavy and too spicy while Delhi biryani uses gravy for the preparation. But Kolkata biryani is exceptionally light. Less spices & use of potato make its taste very different.
Sanjeev Kapoor Khazana - Story of Kolkata Biriyani :
Those are living in Kolkata or lived sometimes here, knows about the finest biryanis in town. Despite that, for the uninitiated, I have made a list of Kolkata's top biriyani houses.
♨ Royal (Chitpur) (1905) #OldisGold
Royal has its royal connection in Kolkata Biriyani. As we all know that Kolkata biriyani has its roots from Lucknow as Nawab Wazid Ali Shah was exiled here in 1856 from Uttar Pradesh. He came to Metiabruz areas of Kolkata with his bawarchis and khansamas (cooks and chefs) along other people and servants, not to compromise tastes and indulgences. But the fund was limited. So the cooks started making Biriyani with less masala, and replaced meat with potatoes.
Another source says, the Nawab Wazid Ali Shah himself introduced potato in the awadhi/lucknow biriyani as an exotic vegetables. Egg was also introduced with biriyani during this time, probably in the house of local Muslim families. Egg was (and is too) a cheap alternative to mutton/chicken. Whatever after 166 years, we can't stop to celebrate the Kolkata Biriyani with aloo.
Ahmed Hussain, a descendent of Nawab Wazid Ali Shah, opened a small hotel in Chitpur in 1905. The place has always had a loyal clientele since the begining.
After independence Royal was established and started serving potato-free true Lucknow Biriyani (though potato returned, on request they serve it to you for last few years). Apart from the biriyani, Royal is also famous for its other Awadhi dishes, like Mutton Qalia, Mutton Chanp.
♨ Aminia (1929)
First Aminia outlet was opened its door back in 1929 in the Zakaria street, just opposite to Nakhoda Masjid, by late Abdul Rahim. However for next generation population, the most popular Aminia outlet was that one located near Futnani Chamber/Kolkata Municipal Corporation office in Hogg Market or New Market.
Aminia creates a chain of restaurant across the metro, but unlike Arsalan who's branches fail miserably, Aminia's branches are a hit or semi-hit in most of the locality. Rather their original branch at New Market is a not so-good.
My take: Aminia's main branch at New Market serves the Biriyani is quite bland.
♨ Shiraz (1941)
Founded in 1941 by Md. Arshad Ali, Md Hussain & Md. Samsuddin, Shiraz started its journey as Taj Hotel. During 50's it was rechristened itself as Golden Restaurant. The first chef/bawarchi of Taj Hotel, Md. Samsuddin was a relative of a khas bawarchi of Nawab. But Shiraz's official website notes him as the direct descendant of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah of Lucknow. In 1970s it was renamed as Shiraz Golden Restaurant.
Many say Shiraz is best in Kolkata. Though they now have some other branches in the city, the main branch at Moulali is best among the peers. And they serve Mughlai breakfast too, 5 am onwards! The breakfast menu changes with seasons.
Website: https://www.shirazgoldenrestaurant.com/
♨ Sabir's Hotel (1948), Chandni Chawk
Sabir's is more famous for its Mutton Rezala and tandoori rooti than its biriyani. But many says its Rezala has lost its day, and biriyani is better than other items.
Located at 3&5, Biplabi Anukai Chandra Street, well that's not right to introduce Sabir's Hotel. Sabir's is located at Chandni Chawk, and after you stepped out from the Metro Station, you can ask anybody for the direction. It is very easy to locate. The non-AC section at the ground floor has the old Calcutta charm, flavored with butler dressed waiters from the days of the British. They do minimal talking to you, and smile to you if you're a regular there. Ordering to them is an art, as you have done your homework what to be ordered. The AC section at the first floor has the old school cabins too.
In the backstory of Sabir's Hotel, it was founded by Sabir Ali who came to Kolkata from Lucknow and was working as a helping hand in a hotel in Titagarh. He had a great business mind and found his own hotel at Chandni Chawk in 1948.
♨ New Aliyah (1956)
Aliah was started as small tea stall, run by Ali brothers (Ali Baksh and Ali Mohammed). In 1956 it was converted into a hotel, Tinwala Hotel serving simple meals of rice, daal, sabzi. Later the hotel became the iconic biriyani house of Bentick street during 1970's. In fact that was the time when the craze for biriyani was started, and by demand New Aliyah was founded.
Apart from biriyani, you can order famous Murgh Musallam. Many says it's best in Aliyah.
♨ India Hotel (1980), Khidirpore
Somehow being located at Khidirpore, India Hotel is off the grid, but I would say this best biriyani house in Kolkata right now. India was founded by Haji Syed Md Kalim nearly in 1980. Earlier they have ground floor only but now their first and second floor restaurant gives the ambient fine dining experience. They excel in Kachhi/Dariyabadi Biriyani and Galauti kebab.
India opened their north Kolkata outlet near Airport, at Kaikhali (April 2022).
♨ Rahmania (1984)
Rahmania is a special mention for me. It was set up in 1984 by Mohammad Farooq near Mullick Bazar, and in 2013 Rahmania had 12 outlets across Kolkata - a trend which Aminia and Arsalan were about to learn. Now Md Sharif who runs the family business with his brother, Mujib Rahman.
Now back in 2008-11, when I was in college, I used to go their Shyambazar outlet. Biriyani was a not easy dish in Shyambazar that time. Golbari was just reopened, and nostalgia was giving it a dream run. People of North Kolkata are more interested in mutton curry, rice, kochuri, chops etc. That time with tight money in my pocket Rahmania was a good option for me - for the biriyani and chap.
Standing at January, 2022 Rahmania has only branch in Park Street with good decor and the brand logo changed. Enter the fine dining!
♨ Arsalan (2002)
Arsalan is quite a late entrant in Kolkata Biriyani space, opened their first shop at Park Circus crossing in 2002. However the growth of Arsalan starts from 2005. Now Arsalan has several outlet across the city but their main and original outlet at Park Circus crossing is one of the best place for Kolkata biriyani. They have launched their first overseas restaurant in Dubai in 2018.
The variety varies in their outlets, so is the size of the mutton. I found that in Barrackpore outlet the mutton piece is of alteast 120gm. Worst outlet is probably the Dum Dum park/Nagerbazar one as per my experience.
Newcomers also come in the Kolkata biriyani space.
♨ Oudh 1590
Chaudhury brothers introduced a period dining experience with Oudh 1590. They make sure that customers can enjoy traditional Awadhi Nawabi culture through the food, décor and ambience.
A very dimly lit restaurant, with good interior decor and expensive dishes, I personally don't recommend their biriyani except the Raan Biriyani. However their other dishes like kebabs are good, but I find them bit costly (charges for the ambience, bro!)
Web: www.oudh1590.com
♨ Manzilat's
Heritage touch with Biriyani comes here, as Mrs. Manzilat Fatima is one of direct descendant of Sultan Wajid Ali Shah, the sultan of Awadh, who was exiled in Calcutta by the British. For a taste of royal kitchen you must visit here.
However I find biryani here is extremely light, and somehow you would miss the charm. But her hospitality is superb - so for a change you must have a visit there.
♨ Zam Zam
Zam Zam has its own fanbase and most of them prefer the beef variant of ZZ biriyani. Hot, succulent beef pieces with well cooked long grain rice - Zam Zam is worth for every penny. And they serve beef malai and borhani too.
Zam Zam has mutton & chicken biriyani too, in their menu. The main branch stood at Noor Ali Lane, in the lane opposite to Mother House. It has no-ambient dhaba/pice hotel like atmosphere, but for good dining you must visit their Park Circus branch, opposite to Quest Mall. During winter they serve Nihari too.
♨ Dada Boudi's Biriyani (Barrackpore)
Barrackpore is the north most suburb of Kolkata along the B.T. Road. However it spots as a suburban legend due to a local biryani house - Dada Boudi's Hotel. As soon as you dropped at Barrackpore Railway station you would smell the aroma of their Biriyani. Taste wise it is quite different than the traditional Kolkata biriyani. It is spicy, juicy, and some may not like the smell of rose water, kyaora water and ittar. But the mutton piece is bigger than most of the biriyani houses of Kolkata, yet it is very tender, succulent, and juicy.
After so many years, nearly 20+ years the area has got some competitors too. Still Dada Boudi's Hotel remains a top spot for biriyani lovers in the city, Sona remains an underdog in the locality. D Bapi for last 3-4 years is Barrackpore's second favorite in biriyani. And Kolkata's top brands could not ignore this suburban market - Aminia and Arsalan did open their outlets here.
♨ Zeeshan
It was initially a roll center, and then metamorphosis done. Presently it has 4 branches in Kolkata - Park Circus, Dharmatala, Deshopriyo Park and Garia. 10-15 years back Zeeshan was a popular name in Kolkata Biriyani scene, and they expanded to Bengaluru too.
There are also some leftover Zeeshan branches, for eg, one can be found in College Street.
♨ Bombay Hotel - Zakaria Street
Zakaria Street ka shan is Bombay Hotel, but many may miss it due to its looks. On a regular day Bombay makes one of the best beef biriyani in Kolkata. And I must say their range of beef offerings is superb!
♨ Nizam's
Nizam's is a kind of nostralgia for the Kolkatans, as many tasted beef first time in the form of Beef Roll or Kebab at Nizam.
Nizam's is one of the oldest restaurants in Kolkata. The origin story dates back to 1880 when Sheik Hasan Reza came to Kolkata from Haveli, a village of Uttar Pradesh. He opened a small shop near Hogg Market to sell Kathi Kebab & Paratha. That time British soldiers used to come to Hogg Market from their basecamp of Fort William. Reza found that packing the kebabs inside the paratha would help the soliders keep their hands clean. That's the begining of Kathi Rolls.
They serve biriyani too, and it's quite good too. During Ramzan it serves Halim too.
♨ Asma - Baruipur
Another sub-urban legend, Asma at Baruipur Rail Station is wildly famouse for their beef biriyani and chanp. However make sure you're not expecting any ambiance - typical dhaba type set up. So better avoid in summers. I heard that they have opened a restaurant with good siting arrangement but that does not serve beef.
♨ Waah Janaab
Waah Janaab is a new outlet in Park Circus area, and it got popularity due to its offerings similar to Zakaria Street's Ramzan offerings - Mini Zakaria in better ambience. The beef offerings are great, though serves chicken/mutton too. Biriyani is also included in the menu.
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| Biriyani at Waah Janaab (Beef) |
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| Waah Janaab's Beef Kebab Platter - not appropriate for this post, but this one is their best ! |
♨ Zaareen
I visited this take-away joint, located at Tarulia, Kestopur atleast 3 years back. The visit was via a food group of facebook, and the owners showed us ample of hospitality and the food was top notch. They had some different varieties of biriyani and targeted to serve Sector V, New Town and Kestopur VIP region.
In January, 2022 I just checked on Zomato, showing this one is permanently closed. However for the fans like us they are still operating from the Shovabazar branch. I need to re-evaluate their quality and quantity before recommending again.
Some other mentions: Shimla Biriyani (VIP Nagar, EM Bypass), Sufi Palace (College Street), Han D Biriyani (Ripon street), Behrouz (in multiple locations, www.behrouzbiryani.com), Nursat's (Lake View Road), Kabuliwala (New Town), Mezbaan (Wellesley), Hyanglatherium (Lake Gardens), UP Bihar (New Market).
Sultan (Deshpriya Park) - permanently closed
Outlets failed miserably: Biriyani Company (didn't like at all), Biriyani by Kilo (for ridiculous taste/ cost ratio), Naushijaan (very poor service, mediocre taste)
Biriyani Chains from Other Cities:
♨ Paradise - branch of Hyd-famous Paradise (at Park St.). The Hyderabadi biriyani has special fanbase. It is spicey and bit dry, and comes without aloo, and with curry leaves flavour. You may like or not, Paradise is worth mentioning.
♨ Karim's - Original from Jama Masjid Delhi 6: They have 5 outlets in Kolkata - in Entally, Hatibagan, Ballygaunge, New Town and Sector I, Salt Lake. It has history since 1913, named as per founder Haji Karimuddin.
However many suggests to get Karim's starters, not the biriyani.
♨ Kareem's - Another chain of Mughlai restaurant from Mumbai also came in Kolkata for last few years. The chain has 3 branches in Kolkata - Park Street, Sector 5 Salt Lake, Chinar Park.
In May 2022, Delhi High Court has restrained Mumbai based businessman Kareem Dhanani from opening any further restaurants under Kareem's branding.
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