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| Durga Charan Rakshit Ghat located at the middle of the Chandannagar Strand |
Today Chandannagar (চন্দননগর) is almost like any other cities or towns of West Bengal, but it has a long colonial history, which is older than Kolkata.
Locals used to call this place Farashdanga (ফরাসডাঙ্গা, the land of the French). The name of Chandernagore was first found in letters dated 1696 by officials of French East India Company. The origin of name may be from the business of chandan/sandalwood, or may be from goddess Chandi or, due to the location with the river Ganges' moon cresent look (chandni, চাঁদনি).
Created out of three villages, Borokishanganj, Khalisani and Gondalpara (গোন্দলপাড়া) Chandernagore was emerged as the main centre of European commerce in Bengal and became a key trade centre. The foundation of Chandannagar was done by Du Plessis in 1673-74, when he bought land in Borokishanganj (and Job Charnock would be to establish Calcutta in 1690).
French lost Chandernagore to Brits in 1757, and won it back in 1816. A municipality was established in 1880 with Charles Dumaine as the first Mayor.
The French enclave was a natural sanctuary for freedom fighters escaping the British Empire. Rashbehari Bose, founder of Azad Hind Fauj, revolutionary leader Kanailal Dutta and social reformer Sri Harihar Seth were based here. In 1910 Sri Aurobindo followed an adesa or divine command and sailed from Calcutta to Chandernagore where he stayed in the house of Motilal Roy before heading to Pondicherry after a 39-day stopover. Roy went on to establish the Prabartak Sangha and launched an incendiary Bengali literary magazine in 1915.
Chandannagar was under French rule till 1950 and on 2nd October, 1954 Chandannagar was integrated into the state of West Bengal. Chandannagar is now a subdivision of Hooghly district of West Bengal. But don't expect anything like Pondicherry in here!
Portuguese origin Anthony Firingee (born as Hensman Anthony), famous folk poet and Bengal kabiyal was settled in Farashdanga in early 1800's. Later he moved to Kolkata and married his courtesan, Saudamini, a Bengali widow. He was a devotee of goddess Kali and built up a Kali temple at Boubazar, which is now known as Firingi Kalibari.
1. Institut De Chandannagore with Museum (Duplex's Mansion)
Duplex was the French governor in Chandannagar, his first residence is Duplex's Mansion. Later it became a naval godown, then presently act as Chandannagar Museum since 1961, managed by ASI.
It is one of the oldest museums of West Bengal. It boasts of a collection of rare French antiques, such as cannons used in the Anglo-French wars (popularly known as the Carnatic wars), personal belongings of French governor generals, and wooden furniture dating back to the 18th century, which are difficult to find anywhere else in the world. Exhibits include items used by Dupleix (the Governor General of French India), such as a marble bust of himself, and relics of the French colonial and local history of Chandannagar.
2. Chandannagar Strand and Durga Charan Rakshit Ghat
Dourgachorone Roquitte (Durgacharan Rakshit), Courtier of the French Government was the first Indian to be conferred with the Chevalier de legion d’Honour in 1896. The Ghat was built in the 1920's in honour of him. This ‘pavilion’ contains beautiful and decorative stucco works and floral designs.
The strand lies for nearly 1 km across the river.
Joraghat or chandni ??
3. Sacred Heart Catholic Church
It was designed by French Architect Jacques Duchatz. The church was inaugurated by Father Paul Goethals 27 Jan. 1884. The church stands for over two centuries to mark the beauty of the architecture during the French period. The remains of the Church of St. Louis is also an attractive tourist spot.
3A. Dayal Manzil: Located behind the Sacred Heart Church, there is Dayal Manzil, a French mansion from 1875 has an arched gateway leading to an expansive courtyard. A sweeping fairy tale staircase flanked by two concrete maidens leads to the first floor. Inscribed on the crumbling main door in Bengali lettering is the name of the current owner — Satyabaran Bandyopadhyay, Geetikar [lyricist] Akashbani, All India Radio. The building was constructed by his forefather, Satya Dayal Banerjee, who was a zamindar.
4. Chandannagore Court
Originally it was built in 1878 as Hotel de Paris.
4A. Chandannagar College
It was Thai Shola hotel built in 1887.
4B. Chapel of St. Joseph's Convent
It was build in 1861.
5. French Cemetry and Church of the Sister of Cluney
The French Cemetery contains 150 tombs and is located on the Grand Trunk Road opposite Lal Dighi (a large lake). Amongst the remarkable people buried there, one can find the tomb of Duplessis, the founding father of French Chandannagar and also the one of pioneering meteorologist Henry "Storm" Piddington, who is mentioned in Amitav Ghosh's novel The Hungry Tide.
7. Prefecture of Police (Jail)
9. Nundy Bari
Now serves as Ruplal Nundy Memorial Cancer Research Center. Earlier known as Gala Kuthi to locals, it was a Portuguese warehouse of gala (shellac), it went on to host dignitaries like Maharaja Krishnachandra of Krishnanagar and Bengali poet Bharatchandra Ray.
10. Rabindra Bhavan
11. Gendamerie (Police station)
12. Nanda Dulal Jiu Temple
In 1730, Joseph Francois Dupleix was made governor of Chandarnagore while Indranarayan Chowdhury was appointed by the French Compagnie as Diwan. Chowdhury built the temple of Sri Nandadulal Jiu Temple. Many believes he stashed his wealth inside a secret chamber of the temple.
It is one of the finest example of do chala (double sloped roof) mandir of Bengal’s temple architecture. The temple houses the idol of Nandadulal in kosthi pathar (touch stone). Dolyatra and Janmashtami are the principal festivals here. A two-day function was held every year on the day of Janmashtami and it continued till the next day, ie, Nandautsav. The temple has stucco works containing elephant’s heads.
13. Chandan Nagore Gate
Constructed in 1937, to mark the Fall of Bastille, the gate has the slogan of the French Revolution "Liberté, égalité, fraternité (Liberty, equality fraternity)" etched on it.
Some mention it as Liberty Gate, as it was listed on WB Heritage Commisson's site.
14. Patal Bari
Originally a rest house of the French navy, it later hosted social reformer Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar and Nobel laureate Rabindra Nath Tagore, who even integrated Patal Bari into his stories.
15. Tristle Hostel (sub divisional court)
16. Boro Shibtala - Rajrajeshwar Temple
Located at the north of Chandannagar, Rajrajeshwar temple of Boro shibtala is probably the only surviving terracotta temple of Chandannagar.
Structure wise it is a beautiful nabaratna or nine pinnacled temple built in second half of 1900th century. The principal deity of the temple is Lord Shiva. Like the other terracotta temples, the Rajrajeshwar Temple of Uttar Chandannagar has a number of idols on the three sides of both the entrances.
There is also another pancha ratna (five pinnacled) temple nearby but the condition is not very good.
17. Clock Tower
It was built in 1845 dedicated to Joseph Daumain S’Pourcain.
18. Nitya Gopal Smriti Mandir
Built in 1860 by Sri Harihar Sett it was donated to the people of Chandernagore as a theatre hall and library.
Nearby: Kanhai Seth’er Bari, home to the Nandys.
18A. Boraichandi Temple (বোড়াইচণ্ডী মন্দির)
Many believes Chandannagar was named after Devi Chandi.
In the Borai Chandi Tala there are:
18B. Sri Aurovindo Smriti Tirtha
18C. Prabartak Temple (listed on WBHC as Sreemandir of Prabartak Samgha in 2019) at Goswami Ghat road
19. Laxmiganj Bazar
Once up on a time, it was called as 'granary of the East'.
The Chaul Patty of the bazar holds the place where first Jagaddhatri puja was done in 1700s. It is called temple of adi ma. Today Chandannagar is famous for its celebration of Jagaddhatri Puja, along with the light show.
In 1868 British India brought Indian Contagious Diseases Act which put the sex workers to register with government and undergo tests for venereal diseases. The act was made to keep British soliders free of diseases, but the act became a mode of oppression on the sex workers. and eventually a good number of them fled to French ruled Chandannagar's Laxmiganj bazar. It was there til 1980, until left government moved them away. Today's Laxmiganj bazar has no memory of the sex trade.
More reading on Scroll.in
Urdi bajar was named after the vardi or khaki uniform of soldiers who stayed here during colonial times.
Krishna Bhabini Nari Siksha Mandir - One of the oldest school in the area. The old building is now listed as heritage site by WBHC in 2019.
20. Gopal babur bari at Gondalpara
Spread over 96 cottahs in Gondalpara, the house constructed in 1872 was meant to be the pleasure palace of the king of Ramnagar, a town close to Varanasi. The king later gifted the house to his favourite cook Gopal Babu, after whom it is named. Set in a large compound, the house comes with a pond, stables and garages.
20A. Nilkantheshwari Temple, Gondalpara
A beautiful pancha ratna (five pinnacled) temple at Rabindra Nath Road, Chandannagar built by Late Sibnath Mukhopadhyay and her wife Saratkumari Debi on 10th July, 1913 (26 Ashar, 1320 Bangabda, Sukla Saptami tithi) belong to Debi Nilkantheshwari. Inside the temple sanctum there is a throne in which Debi Nilkantheshwari (Goddess Kali) is standing. The temple also houses a Shivalinga named Baneswar.
Sibnath Mukhopadhyay and her wife Saratkumari Debi had no issues and they pray to the goddess for a child. It was said that on one late night the goddess came in a dream and instructed them to built an idol from a stone lying under swetchampak tree on the western corner of the garden. Accordingly the idol was carved out of that touchstone by a sculptor. Some say that it was made by an Italian sculptor; while others opined for a sculptor from Jaipur.
The temple took nearly 3-4 years to complete and an amount of ninety thousand rupees was spent for that. The remaining part of the temple was built by Prakash Chandra Bandopadhyay who is the eldest son of Anadi Nath Bandopadhyay (nephew of Sibnath). Prakash Chandra was termed as the temple’s nabarupakar.
Daily worship is performed here and apart from Kali puja the main festival takes place every year on the foundation day of the temple which is on July.
20A. Mondol Bari
20B. Gondalpara post office building
21. Narua - Baro Shivmandir and Dolmancha
22. Bishalakhi Temple
Located at Khalisani (west part of rail station). It is a more than 500 yr old temple.
Near the Saraswati river.
23. Lalbagan Sitalatala -
Place for idol makers
House of Nandalal Bhar (listed on WBHC in 2019)
Bonedi Baris in Chandannagar -
Bose bari (bosepara), nandan nandan temple ??
Rakshit bari
Mondal bari (gondalpara)
Ghosh bari (fatakghora)
Dey Bari (barasat, chandannagar)
20. Sweets - Surjya Modak
Surya Modak's Jalbhara is a legend in the history of Bengali delicacy.
Surjya Kumar Modak invented Jalbhara Talsansh Sandesh in 1881, in the occasion of Jamai Sasthi to fool the new bridegroom, as ordered by Telinipara's Bandyopadhyay family. Jalbhara (= filled with water) has a outer Chhana coating with inside full of rose water (imported from Kannauj, Uttar Pradesh) or with Nolen gur in winter days. He also invented Motichur Sandesh, Aam Sandesh and Khirpully Sandesh with the help from his son Siddheswar.
Back in 2018, they have tied up with Benfish, the fish oriented brand backed by Dept of Fisheries, Govt. of West Bengal to sell their sweets in the capital, i.e. in Kolkata.
They have a website - www.jalbharasurjyamodak.com
20A. Sweets - Mrityunjay
Food -
Hotel de Chandannagar
Locals used to call this place Farashdanga (ফরাসডাঙ্গা, the land of the French). The name of Chandernagore was first found in letters dated 1696 by officials of French East India Company. The origin of name may be from the business of chandan/sandalwood, or may be from goddess Chandi or, due to the location with the river Ganges' moon cresent look (chandni, চাঁদনি).
Created out of three villages, Borokishanganj, Khalisani and Gondalpara (গোন্দলপাড়া) Chandernagore was emerged as the main centre of European commerce in Bengal and became a key trade centre. The foundation of Chandannagar was done by Du Plessis in 1673-74, when he bought land in Borokishanganj (and Job Charnock would be to establish Calcutta in 1690).
French lost Chandernagore to Brits in 1757, and won it back in 1816. A municipality was established in 1880 with Charles Dumaine as the first Mayor.
The French enclave was a natural sanctuary for freedom fighters escaping the British Empire. Rashbehari Bose, founder of Azad Hind Fauj, revolutionary leader Kanailal Dutta and social reformer Sri Harihar Seth were based here. In 1910 Sri Aurobindo followed an adesa or divine command and sailed from Calcutta to Chandernagore where he stayed in the house of Motilal Roy before heading to Pondicherry after a 39-day stopover. Roy went on to establish the Prabartak Sangha and launched an incendiary Bengali literary magazine in 1915.
Chandannagar was under French rule till 1950 and on 2nd October, 1954 Chandannagar was integrated into the state of West Bengal. Chandannagar is now a subdivision of Hooghly district of West Bengal. But don't expect anything like Pondicherry in here!
Portuguese origin Anthony Firingee (born as Hensman Anthony), famous folk poet and Bengal kabiyal was settled in Farashdanga in early 1800's. Later he moved to Kolkata and married his courtesan, Saudamini, a Bengali widow. He was a devotee of goddess Kali and built up a Kali temple at Boubazar, which is now known as Firingi Kalibari.
1. Institut De Chandannagore with Museum (Duplex's Mansion)
Duplex was the French governor in Chandannagar, his first residence is Duplex's Mansion. Later it became a naval godown, then presently act as Chandannagar Museum since 1961, managed by ASI.
It is one of the oldest museums of West Bengal. It boasts of a collection of rare French antiques, such as cannons used in the Anglo-French wars (popularly known as the Carnatic wars), personal belongings of French governor generals, and wooden furniture dating back to the 18th century, which are difficult to find anywhere else in the world. Exhibits include items used by Dupleix (the Governor General of French India), such as a marble bust of himself, and relics of the French colonial and local history of Chandannagar.
2. Chandannagar Strand and Durga Charan Rakshit Ghat
Dourgachorone Roquitte (Durgacharan Rakshit), Courtier of the French Government was the first Indian to be conferred with the Chevalier de legion d’Honour in 1896. The Ghat was built in the 1920's in honour of him. This ‘pavilion’ contains beautiful and decorative stucco works and floral designs.
The strand lies for nearly 1 km across the river.
Joraghat or chandni ??
3. Sacred Heart Catholic Church
It was designed by French Architect Jacques Duchatz. The church was inaugurated by Father Paul Goethals 27 Jan. 1884. The church stands for over two centuries to mark the beauty of the architecture during the French period. The remains of the Church of St. Louis is also an attractive tourist spot.
3A. Dayal Manzil: Located behind the Sacred Heart Church, there is Dayal Manzil, a French mansion from 1875 has an arched gateway leading to an expansive courtyard. A sweeping fairy tale staircase flanked by two concrete maidens leads to the first floor. Inscribed on the crumbling main door in Bengali lettering is the name of the current owner — Satyabaran Bandyopadhyay, Geetikar [lyricist] Akashbani, All India Radio. The building was constructed by his forefather, Satya Dayal Banerjee, who was a zamindar.
4. Chandannagore Court
Originally it was built in 1878 as Hotel de Paris.
4A. Chandannagar College
It was Thai Shola hotel built in 1887.
4B. Chapel of St. Joseph's Convent
It was build in 1861.
5. French Cemetry and Church of the Sister of Cluney
The French Cemetery contains 150 tombs and is located on the Grand Trunk Road opposite Lal Dighi (a large lake). Amongst the remarkable people buried there, one can find the tomb of Duplessis, the founding father of French Chandannagar and also the one of pioneering meteorologist Henry "Storm" Piddington, who is mentioned in Amitav Ghosh's novel The Hungry Tide.
7. Prefecture of Police (Jail)
9. Nundy Bari
Now serves as Ruplal Nundy Memorial Cancer Research Center. Earlier known as Gala Kuthi to locals, it was a Portuguese warehouse of gala (shellac), it went on to host dignitaries like Maharaja Krishnachandra of Krishnanagar and Bengali poet Bharatchandra Ray.
10. Rabindra Bhavan
11. Gendamerie (Police station)
12. Nanda Dulal Jiu Temple
In 1730, Joseph Francois Dupleix was made governor of Chandarnagore while Indranarayan Chowdhury was appointed by the French Compagnie as Diwan. Chowdhury built the temple of Sri Nandadulal Jiu Temple. Many believes he stashed his wealth inside a secret chamber of the temple.
It is one of the finest example of do chala (double sloped roof) mandir of Bengal’s temple architecture. The temple houses the idol of Nandadulal in kosthi pathar (touch stone). Dolyatra and Janmashtami are the principal festivals here. A two-day function was held every year on the day of Janmashtami and it continued till the next day, ie, Nandautsav. The temple has stucco works containing elephant’s heads.
13. Chandan Nagore Gate
Constructed in 1937, to mark the Fall of Bastille, the gate has the slogan of the French Revolution "Liberté, égalité, fraternité (Liberty, equality fraternity)" etched on it.
Some mention it as Liberty Gate, as it was listed on WB Heritage Commisson's site.
14. Patal Bari
Originally a rest house of the French navy, it later hosted social reformer Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar and Nobel laureate Rabindra Nath Tagore, who even integrated Patal Bari into his stories.
15. Tristle Hostel (sub divisional court)
16. Boro Shibtala - Rajrajeshwar Temple
Located at the north of Chandannagar, Rajrajeshwar temple of Boro shibtala is probably the only surviving terracotta temple of Chandannagar.
Structure wise it is a beautiful nabaratna or nine pinnacled temple built in second half of 1900th century. The principal deity of the temple is Lord Shiva. Like the other terracotta temples, the Rajrajeshwar Temple of Uttar Chandannagar has a number of idols on the three sides of both the entrances.
There is also another pancha ratna (five pinnacled) temple nearby but the condition is not very good.
17. Clock Tower
It was built in 1845 dedicated to Joseph Daumain S’Pourcain.
18. Nitya Gopal Smriti Mandir
Built in 1860 by Sri Harihar Sett it was donated to the people of Chandernagore as a theatre hall and library.
Nearby: Kanhai Seth’er Bari, home to the Nandys.
18A. Boraichandi Temple (বোড়াইচণ্ডী মন্দির)
Many believes Chandannagar was named after Devi Chandi.
In the Borai Chandi Tala there are:
18B. Sri Aurovindo Smriti Tirtha
18C. Prabartak Temple (listed on WBHC as Sreemandir of Prabartak Samgha in 2019) at Goswami Ghat road
19. Laxmiganj Bazar
Once up on a time, it was called as 'granary of the East'.
The Chaul Patty of the bazar holds the place where first Jagaddhatri puja was done in 1700s. It is called temple of adi ma. Today Chandannagar is famous for its celebration of Jagaddhatri Puja, along with the light show.
In 1868 British India brought Indian Contagious Diseases Act which put the sex workers to register with government and undergo tests for venereal diseases. The act was made to keep British soliders free of diseases, but the act became a mode of oppression on the sex workers. and eventually a good number of them fled to French ruled Chandannagar's Laxmiganj bazar. It was there til 1980, until left government moved them away. Today's Laxmiganj bazar has no memory of the sex trade.
More reading on Scroll.in
Urdi bajar was named after the vardi or khaki uniform of soldiers who stayed here during colonial times.
Krishna Bhabini Nari Siksha Mandir - One of the oldest school in the area. The old building is now listed as heritage site by WBHC in 2019.
20. Gopal babur bari at Gondalpara
Spread over 96 cottahs in Gondalpara, the house constructed in 1872 was meant to be the pleasure palace of the king of Ramnagar, a town close to Varanasi. The king later gifted the house to his favourite cook Gopal Babu, after whom it is named. Set in a large compound, the house comes with a pond, stables and garages.
20A. Nilkantheshwari Temple, Gondalpara
A beautiful pancha ratna (five pinnacled) temple at Rabindra Nath Road, Chandannagar built by Late Sibnath Mukhopadhyay and her wife Saratkumari Debi on 10th July, 1913 (26 Ashar, 1320 Bangabda, Sukla Saptami tithi) belong to Debi Nilkantheshwari. Inside the temple sanctum there is a throne in which Debi Nilkantheshwari (Goddess Kali) is standing. The temple also houses a Shivalinga named Baneswar.
Sibnath Mukhopadhyay and her wife Saratkumari Debi had no issues and they pray to the goddess for a child. It was said that on one late night the goddess came in a dream and instructed them to built an idol from a stone lying under swetchampak tree on the western corner of the garden. Accordingly the idol was carved out of that touchstone by a sculptor. Some say that it was made by an Italian sculptor; while others opined for a sculptor from Jaipur.
The temple took nearly 3-4 years to complete and an amount of ninety thousand rupees was spent for that. The remaining part of the temple was built by Prakash Chandra Bandopadhyay who is the eldest son of Anadi Nath Bandopadhyay (nephew of Sibnath). Prakash Chandra was termed as the temple’s nabarupakar.
Daily worship is performed here and apart from Kali puja the main festival takes place every year on the foundation day of the temple which is on July.
20A. Mondol Bari
20B. Gondalpara post office building
21. Narua - Baro Shivmandir and Dolmancha
22. Bishalakhi Temple
Located at Khalisani (west part of rail station). It is a more than 500 yr old temple.
Near the Saraswati river.
23. Lalbagan Sitalatala -
Place for idol makers
House of Nandalal Bhar (listed on WBHC in 2019)
Bonedi Baris in Chandannagar -
Bose bari (bosepara), nandan nandan temple ??
Rakshit bari
Mondal bari (gondalpara)
Ghosh bari (fatakghora)
Dey Bari (barasat, chandannagar)
20. Sweets - Surjya Modak
Surya Modak's Jalbhara is a legend in the history of Bengali delicacy.
Surjya Kumar Modak invented Jalbhara Talsansh Sandesh in 1881, in the occasion of Jamai Sasthi to fool the new bridegroom, as ordered by Telinipara's Bandyopadhyay family. Jalbhara (= filled with water) has a outer Chhana coating with inside full of rose water (imported from Kannauj, Uttar Pradesh) or with Nolen gur in winter days. He also invented Motichur Sandesh, Aam Sandesh and Khirpully Sandesh with the help from his son Siddheswar.
Back in 2018, they have tied up with Benfish, the fish oriented brand backed by Dept of Fisheries, Govt. of West Bengal to sell their sweets in the capital, i.e. in Kolkata.
They have a website - www.jalbharasurjyamodak.com
20A. Sweets - Mrityunjay
Food -
Hotel de Chandannagar
2 comments:
অসাধারন পোষ্ট দাদা,,,এর থেকে সুন্দর আর কিছু হতে পারে না।
Thank you !
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