#KolkataHiddenGem #Food : Barua and Dey

Mutton Pantheras at Barua and Dey

Barua and Dey Fast Food Center, as it is known as now is one of the oldest fast food (or telebhaja/evening snacks) center in Kolkata. Located at Shyambazar, one of the oldest area of the metropolis Barua and Dey is mostly famous for authentic pantheras. 

Founded in 1934/1935 Barua and Dey (or Boruah and Dey) was founded by Nakul Chandra Barua. He was a cook at Great Eastern Hotel. He later left that job and start the canteen of 'Theta Pheta' club in Shyambazar region. I am not sure about the club whether it was for only Bengali babus. 

From the title of Nakul babu, it is obvious that he was from Assam. During that pre independence era, there were many clubs  formed by different British people as well as Bengali babus. It could be assumed that Nakul babu was a descendent of Mog cooks served in the kitchen of Shovabazar Rajbari. 

After the death of Nakul Barua and post independence the next generation stepped in. That time it was a joint venture between Fatikchandra Dey and Bidhubhushan Barua. Bidhubhushan babu was famously called as mama (maternal uncle), and their famous shop - Mamar Dokan was located just opposite to Manindra College. 

Now it is run by third generations -  Jaydeb Dey and Raju Barua. The location is also shifted from the main road to bylane. The present location is Gaurimata Sarani. Google Maps link: https://goo.gl/maps/wMg3fc7NUiUckWUX8

It is just a 2 min walk from Shyambazar metro, and you may not be very happy to see the condition of the shop. But they serve one of finest snacks in north Kolkata. Price wise they don't burn your pocket. It starts at 5:30 pm everyday and runs til 9 pm. But please go there before 7:30 pm as top items go sold off fast. 

There is basically no sitting arrangement, but few tools are placed infront of the shop on the road where you can sit and eat. 

Unappealing Condition of the shop, but don't go by the looks!

So what is Mutton Pantheras? This is something as fried patishapta with minced mutton inside. Well that's oversimplification! To make that cover one needs talent, and here they excel. 

Apart from pantheras, they sell breast cutlet, chicken fry, fish fry, fish roll, chicken cutlet, mutton chop, egg devil, fish finger. All are priced between Rs 40-60. 

Chicken Cutlet

Many believe that Mutton Pantheras is improvised Anglo Indian dish originated from French dish 'Crepes au poisson'. Many say it was made first at Shovabazar Rajbari. But Chef Nakul Barua made the modern pantheras. 

Many Bengali x English crossover food items have names originated from English word, like Coverage to Kobiraji, Braised (= fried lightly and then stewed slowly in a closed container) cutlet to Breast cutlet, Batter fry to butter fry as general Bengali people started pronouncing the words bit softly. Experts agree that's the flow of a language!

Barua & Dey now carries another example of cultural mix up (Mog & Bengali) on the gastronomic history of Kolkata. 

Other places to find Pantheras in Kolkata: Ringmo (Shovabazar), Nahoum's (New Market). And I am yet to visit them.