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| Entrance to Zakaria Street/Nakhoda Masjid |
For the first timers, the festival of Ramzan focused on Zakaria street, and extends in surroundings including Kolutola Market/Colootola Bazar, Phears Lane, Chitpur and Rabindra Sarani. Many says the celebration is similar to Delhi’s Chandni Chowk, Mumbai’s Md Ali Road, and Hyderabad’s Old Quarters, I can't verify as I visited none of them. For off-Kolkata people Bangalore has a similar arrangement in old Bangalore but my friend confirms that can't match Zakaria by cost or taste!
History of Zakaria Street
While today Zakaria Street has become an icon for Ramzan's food festival; a few care about its history. The street got its name from Hadji Nur Muhammad Zakaria, a rich Kutchi Menon Muslim trader and a local leader in the Muslim neighbourhood in Chitpur area. Hadji Zakaria lived at Amratolla Street, just a few minutes away from the present Zakaria street. Owner of 'Haji Jackariah Mahomed and Company', Haji Zakaria was consulted by the British while first Factories Act (1881) for India was being drafted. He died in 1890.
Nearby at 92 Rabindra Sarani, there is Selim Manzil, the house of Gauhar Jaan, first Indian vocalist whose voice was recorded in 1902 (Gramaphone Girl), where she spent 37 years of her life (1890-1927).
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This year I went there 3 times during Ramzan, so this time I am giving more (and may be not properly organized) details for the foodwalk at Zakaria.
★ Adam's Kebabs
Why Adam's Kabab? It is 100+ years old street Kabab shop, located at 60 Phears Lane (Chuna Gali), Kolkata 73.
Now price has been hiked with huge demand and long queue. They now introduced Mutton or Chicken kebabs too. I just skipped this place this time due to lonnng queue.
The price is also hiked, and I was informed that mutton and chicken kebabs are only for time being.
The price is also hiked, and I was informed that mutton and chicken kebabs are only for time being.
In December 2019, the prices of ADAM's KABAB Shop was as follows:
- Mutton Suta Kabab Rs 100 per Seekh
- Chicken suta & Malai Kabab Rs 60 per Seekh
- Beef Suta Kabab Rs 60 per Seekh
- Beef Boti Kabab Rs 50 per Seekh
- Chapati Roti Rs 10 per Pc
★ Dilli 6
It was the showstopper after 12 o'clock, runs till 3:30 am almost. On my night visit at around 1:30 am, it was very crowded, the shop guys were too busy to take care of guests. The pieces of chickens were served in a very fast pace!
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| Super Busy at 1:30 am |
What to have: Chicken Afghani with Sheermal rooti, tandoori chicken, fried chicken, tangri kebab.
★ Taskeen
★ Taskeen
Just beside Dilli 6, it's the famous place which serves Murgh Changhazi (Chicken, marinated in curd and 50+ spices, then double fried) and Mahi Akbari (similar preparation of fish). Both are sold in Kg, you can buy as you need. But remember they often don't sell smaller amount.
I had this double fried chicken (first they fry the bigger tandoori sized chicken, and they cut it in small pieces and fry again) in 2017, and found it's very oily and not that tasty as it is hyped. For a first timer, it could be or could not be a nice experience. So I skipped it too, also due to crowd. Another thing you should note that outsiders (Bengalis, non Bengalis from other parts of Kolkata) gather mostly at this shop, hence huge crowd after 7:30pm. For desserts you have two options - sahi tukra and falooda. Faluda is very good here.
★ Bombay Hotel
★ Bombay Hotel
It remains my favorite, as that hujuge Bangalee don't usually visit it. Ambience wise it is more like a pice hotel.
Day 1 : I simply opted for Paratha with Beef Keema and Beef Bhuna, my friend was visiting it for very first time. These items don't need any introduction - heavenly tasty!!
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| In the picture: Tandoori Roti and Beef Bhuna |
Day 2 : I was with my wife, and she opted for Biriyani. For me having biriyani at Bombay Hotel is for the first time. The beef pieces are really tender and succulent, though the rice portions are bit small in quantity as compared to big biriyani houses. Well that's good for us, and that would not take up entire stomach and you may eat more stuffs.
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| In the photo: Beef Biriyani at Bombay Hotel |
New addition : Al Baik
Though we did have opportunity to eat at Al Baik during the initial days of Ramzan, as it was not crowded at all, we messed up as that's time of Iftaar Namaz, and no cook was available.
And also note that Al Baik delivers too, via Zomato and Swiggy!
Kitchen and Zaiqa-E-Dilli
As you take left turn to Phears lane from Khirod Vidya Binod Avenue, you will first meet Kitchen (no beef) - good for biriyani and kebab items. And you go deep inside the Muslim colony across Phears Ln, you would find Zaiqa-E-Dilli. Zaiqa is having pretty good review on Zomato and Google.
Both are listed as Barabazar restaurants in Zomato/Google.
And also note that Al Baik delivers too, via Zomato and Swiggy!
Kitchen and Zaiqa-E-Dilli
As you take left turn to Phears lane from Khirod Vidya Binod Avenue, you will first meet Kitchen (no beef) - good for biriyani and kebab items. And you go deep inside the Muslim colony across Phears Ln, you would find Zaiqa-E-Dilli. Zaiqa is having pretty good review on Zomato and Google.
Both are listed as Barabazar restaurants in Zomato/Google.
♛♛ Haleem ♛♛
Let me remind I first time heard of Haleem at Nizam's at Esplanade. We were regular at Nizam's for the beef roll and beef biriyani. The waiter, found us regular college going customer, suggested to take Haleem, I guess it was back in 2008 or 2009. We asked what is it actually and then ordered along with paratha. That was a mistake, Haleem is more like beef khichuri!
It's Ramzan time, and Haleem is a must eat delicacy. You can have it from any roadside stall or jump into the restaurants like Bombay Hotel, Sufia and Aminia.
★ Sufia
Famous for their quintessential Moghlai breakfast - Nihari and Paya during winter days, Sufia is also good for bhuna, kebab and biriyani.
But during Ramzan Sufia is not popular food joint in my opinion. The craze of Sufia can be experienced during the Winter days, when people queued up from 4: 30 am in front of the store. The Nihari and Paya with Daal Puri sell like hot cakes !
Usually Sufia starts making Nehari from middle of November, and continues till February end. You should not skip it - because after having the Nehari, you should walk and enjoy the cold morning of Kolkata.
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| The Winter Morning Wonder - Sufia's Nihari (Photo from 2021 Winter) |
★ Aminia
Aminia lies here in dullness, as Royal draws most of the aamir crowd to them. During Ramzan they also make Awadhi biriyani.
Aminia lies here in dullness, as Royal draws most of the aamir crowd to them. During Ramzan they also make Awadhi biriyani.
★ Royal
The most expensive shop in this area. And Royal's biriyani is a crowd puller.
Royal is famous for Kolkata biriyani without egg and potato. However due to competition and market demand they offer potato optionally.
In my casual days I never go to Royal, as Bombay and Dilshad make my meaty affair so perfect.
Royal is famous for Kolkata biriyani without egg and potato. However due to competition and market demand they offer potato optionally.
In my casual days I never go to Royal, as Bombay and Dilshad make my meaty affair so perfect.
★ Moradabadi Laziz Kabab Stall
This one is excelling in fish items. But I feel you can skip it.
★ Dilsad Kebab Center /Dilshad Laziz Kebab
A very ordinary shop, often missed by people Dilsad's is more like parar choper dokan! But like our parar dokan serves great chops, Dilsad's serves awesome kebabs - Dahi, Malai, Khiri and Boti kebabs - all on live counter!
Khiri Kebabs, made of cow's udder (= mammary glands), have a very distinctive chewy texture. I like it along with other kebabs from the live grills of Dilshad Bhai.
It's my favorite kebab center in this locality and believe me you may fall in love with beef kebabs, not only for their low price, but also for tender meats!
★ Abdul Hamid's Kabab Shop
It is another small kabab shop of Zakaria, run by the 4th generation of Haji Abdul Hamid. That counts the age of the shop more than 100 years. Their speciality is Khiri and Gurda kababs, as the shop is named as Haji Abdul Hamid - Khari Kabab Wale. It is located at 7 Bolai Dutta Street, Kolkata 700 073.
★★ Desserts ★★ 💙💙
1. Hazi Nizammuddin
One of the best non Bengali mithai shop in Kolkata.
We again skipped it due to heavy crowd.
One of the best non Bengali mithai shop in Kolkata.
We again skipped it due to heavy crowd.
What we missed : Battisa Halwa, Gulab jamun, Mewa laddu, Gajar ka Halwa
2. M.E. Karodia
I came to know about ME Karodia later. I did not visit this place yet. What I heard that they make best Muscat Halwa.
I came to know about ME Karodia later. I did not visit this place yet. What I heard that they make best Muscat Halwa.
However Muscat/Muscoth Halwa I don't find good enough for my Bengali palate.
It is basically a south Indian sweetmeat - originated & popular in Mudalur, near Tuticorin (Tamilnadu). It is made using flour milk & coconut milk.
MORE PHOTOS from Zakaria ~~~~
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